Right in the centre of the city, the Atlas is a solid, good-value mid-range hotel that inspires regular good reports. Set around an inner courtyard, rooms here are large and service is better than average. Taleqani St is pretty busy, however, so it's vital to get the right room.

The Ferdossi Grand has long been the choice of upper mid-range travellers seeking a bed near Tehran's main sights. Great location, yes, but in years past we always described it as 'comfortable' - code for 'functional but drab'. Not anymore: new management has converted it into...

If ever there was a hotel whose atmosphere revolved around one man, this is it. Mr Mousavi is fabulous and is the very personification of Persian hospitality. It's his enthusiasm and help that makes an otherwise unremarkable little hotel in the cheap streets of south Tehran...

Take note: if service and fastidious cleanliness are important to you, stop reading now. If you're willing to relax your standards a little in the name of character and price, this atmospheric old haunt of Tehran's bohemian set might be the place for you.

White leather couches might not be your thing, but if you're prepared to forgive some of the interior design you'll find the Raamtin Residence an ideal upmarket stay. Fitted out for business people, including free wi-fi Internet, the location on Tehran's main commercial strip...