Let's face it, as convenient as central Thamel is, after a while the tiger balm sellers can become a real drag. What you need is a friendly and family-run garden guest house, far enough away to feel the stress evaporate but close enough to walk to if you get a sudden desire...

Hotel Encounter Nepal is a good-value upper budget place just to the north of Thamel, in a more 'lived-in' part of Kathmandu. The variety of rooms means there's something for everyone from budget to mid-range.

We know you want the best of both worlds. Close enough to the shops and restaurants of Thamel, but far enough away to be able to escape the hassle. Clean, comfortable rooms and reliable hot water, without losing those backpacker rates. If that's you, welcome to the Ganesh Himal.

You can't go wrong at this well-run and popular Tibet Guest House in the lower-middle bracket. Its convenient location adds to the appeal. Like many hotels in Kathmandu, the Tibet Guest House is run by a family from Manang, in the Annapurna region, which is perhaps one reason...

There's a wide range of comfortable, bright modern rooms here but the best thing is its secluded location, down an alleyway off Tridevi Marg. The intimate, friendly vibe makes all the difference. It's close to Thamel, banks on Tridevi Marg and nearby restaurants but it's also...

At eight storeys, the Hotel Tradition is probably the tallest in central Thamel and is a solid, well-run lower mid-range option. The views from the sixth-floor terrace restaurant are sensational.

The Kathmandu Guest House was the first hotel to open in the area back in 1967 and it's still one of the most popular. It also serves as the central landmark. Everything in Thamel is 'near the Kathmandu Guest House'. In terms of value for money you can get better rooms...

The relaxing garden here may not quite be nirvana but after a couple of hours' shopping in Thamel, it is the closest thing you'll find to bliss. This hotel is a relaxing refuge in the heart of the Thamel action.

The Last Resort sits in a beautiful spot on a ridge above the Bhote Kosi river, 101km (61mi) from Kathmandu and just 12km (7.5mi) from the Tibet border. Access is by suspension bridge across the river, and it's here that Nepal's only bungy jump is set up.

Hotel Courtyard is a stylish new hotel in the heart of Thamel, built in traditional style with oil bricks and Newari-style carved wooden lintels. It's very insulated from the Thamel madness and there are comfortable sitting areas as well as parking.

If you need to escape Kathmandu for a day, this peaceful mid-range retreat just downhill from the famous sleeping Vishnu image of Budhanilkantha, fits the bill nicely. There's lots of good hiking, village life and, shhhh... plenty of peace and quiet.

Hidden down an alley, right on the edge of the fascinating old town, the Kantipur Temple House has been built in old Newari temple-style, with fine attention to detail and a commendable attempt to be environmentally sustainable.

There's nowhere in Kathmandu quite like this former Rana palace - the kind of place where you expect at any moment to bump into some whiskered old Rana prince shuffling around the creaking wooden corridors. If you value dilapidated charm over mod cons, this could be the place...

Shivapuri Heights is a three-bedroom house perched on the hillside above Budhanilkantha, with stunning views over the valley. It's a million miles from Kathmandu, but luckily only 15 minutes by taxi. As a secret getaway for romantic couples, or a relaxing weekend break from...

Dwarika's Hotel is an outstanding and unusual hotel, built in traditional style and incorporating superb examples of antique woodwork rescued from around the valley. It's an admirable example of how tourism can encourage cultural preservation, and also the most romantic place...

Hotel Horizon is a solid budget choice in southern Thamel. It's just off the main commercial street, making it a quieter option than most in this central part of town and there's a wide range of rooms to suit most budgets.

Hotel Norbu Linka is a modern, secluded place with a vague Tibetan feel, on the fringes of Thamel. The opulent suites are great for families and the restaurant is open 24 hours, so if you are jet lagged and have kids, look no further. The brochure even boasts 'baby sitters on...

The Hotel Shangri-La is one of Kathmandu's best hotels. The decor is tasteful, the service is professional, and there are several restaurants and a jazz bar. Best of all is the beautiful central garden with an adjoining restaurant and swimming pool.

Hotel Utse is a comfortable Tibetan hotel owned by Ugen Tsering, one of the original Thamel pioneers. His long-running Utse Restaurant is also popular. Old-school solid without being spectacular, this is a well-run hotel with good staff. The rooftop area is an ideal place to...

No expense has been spared on this huge modern day palace, from the epic Malla-style architecture to the stunning collection of intimate chaityas (mini-stupas) in the lobby. It's actually just outside Kathmandu, on the road to Bodhnath.

The International Guest House, west from Thamel in a residential area known as Kaldhara, is a modern Newari-style hotel that bridges the gap nicely between the big hotels and budget guesthouses. Nice decor, good location and lovely garden make it great mid-range value.

Anyone who likes playing golf, pampering themselves in a spa, or watching monkeys play in the surrounding forest - let's face it, anyone with a pulse - will love this modern-day palace surrounded by the Gokarna Forest Reserve. It's just perfect if you need some pampering after...

The Malla Hotel is a top-end place right on the edge of Thamel, so you can have your cake and then go and eat in Thamel, a five-minute walk away. Who says rich people don't buy cheap CDs? Rooms are modern and comfortable, which is either reassuringly familiar or anaemically...

Pilgrims Guest House is a well-run budget place. Don't just take it from us; it's a favourite of many repeat or long-stay visitors, who should know what they are talking about.The leafy outdoor garden restaurant and bar is the first thing to seduce in this secluded,...

The modern Soaltee Crowne Plaza is one of the largest hotels in Nepal, with lovely palatial grounds, excellent facilities and some of the best restaurants in town. A solid choice. No other accommodation in Kathmandu comes close to the Soaltee's sense of space, with a full 11...

For those in the know, the relaxed, stylish Dutch-run Summit Hotel is a firm favourite and a great alternative to staying in noisy Kathmandu. Carved wood columns and cool terracotta tiles set off the lush gardens perfectly, creating a relaxing and romantic option.

The Fort Resort is a stylish place built in Newari style on the site of the original kot (fort). It is perched on one of the highest hills on the Nagarkot ridge with one of the country's best Himalayan views from its backyard.

Yak & Yeti Hotel is probably the best-known hotel in Nepal, due to its connections with the legendary Boris Lissanevitch. Boris was its original owner and the father of Nepal's tourism industry. Everyone from dusty long-distance cyclists to UNDP workers and the tiara set stay...

If you have the time it's well worth spending a night in the lovely traditional Newari town of Bhaktapur. After the daytripping tourists return to Kathmandu, the locals come out onto the streets and you'll have the town to yourself. You can't do much better than the Bhadgaon...

Tucked away in a bend of the Bhote Kosi River, 97km (60mi) from Kathmandu and a stone's throw from the Tibetan border, the superb Borderlands Resort is a lush and isolated riverside retreat. Accommodation is in tents but this certainly isn't roughing it. It's a wonderful break...