Lonely Planet Review

Hôtel Masséna was taken over by new owners M and Mme Leng in 2005 and already the difference is striking. Mme Leng's artistic flair is evident in the first of her elegantly renovated rooms, and ultimately all 111 rooms will be given her designer treatment.

From the sunflower-yellow lobby of trompe l'oeil murals, to the vases of orchids, each of the renovated rooms in this 1906 building are different, with touches like organza canopies and warm, glowing wooden floors. The prettiest (and priciest) rooms, such as room 315, have their own glass-enclosed terrace and rounded outdoor balcony with views over the fountains splashing in the park below. (Rooms with their own terraces are slightly smaller than those without, but it's a decent trade-off.) Non-renovated rooms are cute in any case, with '60s-swirled shower curtains and candy-striping; and they're all individually air-conditioned. One floor is entirely non-smoking. You can take breakfast in the salon until 10:00, or, for extra decadence, in your room until 12:00. There are just 18 secure garage spaces including valet service, so definitely reserve ahead.