Lonely Planet Review

Its fairyland architectural motifs echoed in other local buildings, the Moller House is one of Shanghai's most idiosyncratic and distinctive structures. The building was off-limits for years (after a long spell as the headquarters of the Chinese Communist Youth League), but has been renovated as a peaceful boutique hotel by the Hengshan group.

An ornate and whimsical marvel, the Hengshan Moller Villa dates back to 1936. Designed by wealthy Swede Eric Moller for a daughter who longed for a fairytale castle, the building was requisitioned by Japanese troops in 1941 before later housing a nest of Kuomintang spies. The crazy brickwork, Neverland turrets, gorgeous lawn and impeccable interior features sees the best rooms frequently booked out - so booking ahead is highly advisable. Monopolising all the history and style, the main building only extends to business rooms and two single rooms; otherwise, the dull, three-storey modern block to the rear houses the cheaper standard rooms (clean with smart bathrooms). Most features of the main rooms are original, from the wood panelling and staircases to the fireplaces. Singles are small; business rooms are much larger and come with a huge balcony that overlooks the garden.